Buying second hand without regret
Buying used kite gear can be genius for your wallet, or a one-way trip to gear regret. The trick is knowing what to look for before you hand over the cash. A quick glance won’t cut it; you need to inspect the kite, the bar, and the board in detail, then ask the right questions.
Kite check from tip to tip
Canopy
The canopy is your kite’s first giveaway. Fresh fabric feels crisp, worn fabric feels papery and soft. Hold it up to the sun: tiny pinholes are fine, but if it looks like a constellation map, the kite’s been cooked. The trailing edge often shows wear first, with flutter cracks or seam frays. Big repair patches, especially with duct tape, are a clear “no.” But a professionally repair can hold up longer than your grandma.
Bladders and valves
Pump the kite and walk away. Leave it inflated for at least 15 minutes. If it’s saggy when you return, there’s a leak in the bladders or valves. Valves are the usual suspects, older glue dries and peels off. One neat re-glue is fine, but a whole set of re-glued valves is an expensive headache waiting to happen. If you’re unsure whether a repair is worth it, shops like Kitemana’s repair service can give you an honest evaluation.
Leading edge and struts
Run your hands along the leading edge and struts. They should feel smooth and hold air pressure. Wrinkles, soft spots, or lumpy repairs are bad signs. A clean professional stitch is okay, but sloppy sewing jobs suggest a hard crash history.
Bridles
Don’t forget the bridles. They need to be even in length and free of frays, knots, or DIY extensions. Worn bridles mess with the kite’s flying behavior and aren’t cheap to replace. If they look like your cat’s scratching post, the kite’s life expectancy isn’t great.
Bar is where safety lives
Lines
The lines are your lifeline. They should all be the same length, smooth, and free from frays. Uneven or stretched lines cause steering problems, and knots weaken them. Roll them out fully to check; don’t just eyeball them.
Chicken loop
This is your main safety mechanism. The quick release should click in and out cleanly, no sticking or hesitation. If it feels jammed or worn, walk away, your life literally hangs here.
Depower system
Slide the depower rope. It should move smoothly and hold its position when set. A chewed-up rope or a sticky cleat means it’s overdue for replacement. Not expensive, but annoying and sometimes unsafe.
Bar ends and floaters
Inspect the ends for cracks, burst marks, or serious wear. The bar itself should feel solid, not like it’s been hammered through chop for a decade.
Pro tip
If possible, buy a new bar from the previous year instead of a heavily used second-hand one. Bars wear out faster than kites, and saving €100 here is not worth risking a sketchy release in strong wind.
Board without blind spots
Rails and deck
Boards can look shiny while hiding damage. Run your hands along the rails for cracks and press the deck for soft spots. A healthy board feels springy and solid. Spongey = water inside.
Straps and inserts
Loose or stripped inserts are a deal-breaker. Straps and pads should feel secure. If inserts are pulling out, the board won’t last.
Bindings
If it comes with bindings, check the inside. The fabric lining often loosens with time. Test the screws and mounting points too, bindings ripping mid-session is no fun.
Repairs
Small, professional repairs are fine. Multiple sketchy patches? Be cautious. Boards generally outlast kites, but they’re not indestructible. Always ask about any fixes you see, because sellers rarely highlight the downsides. If you’re still not sure what shape or size suits you best, my Right board right vibes twintip guide breaks it all down.
Ask about its past life
Every piece of gear has a history, and it matters. Ask where it’s been ridden. Kites in tropical sun age twice as fast as those in Northern Europe’s gloom. Was it rinsed after salty sessions or left to crust in the garage? Was it stored properly or crumpled in the back of a car for months?
The type of riding matters too. A kite used for freeride in flat water often lasts longer than one used for unhooked freestyle crashes. Boards used in waves collect more dings than those on lakes. The more detail the seller gives you, the more confidence you can have in the gear. A vague “yeah it’s fine” is not what you want to hear.
If it’s too cheap, it’s too cheap
A kite and bar combo that’s just a year old and half-price? Suspicious. Good gear holds its value. If it seems too cheap, it usually hides a problem.
That doesn’t mean good deals don’t exist. Shops often sell last year’s models at a discount, and those are reliable buys. Trusted kite forums or local groups are safer than random classifieds with blurry photos.
Rule of thumb: if you wouldn’t trust the seller with your kite on the beach, don’t trust them with your money.
Always test before buying
The best deal is one you can actually fly. Ideally, meet at the beach and demo the kite or board. If that’s not possible, at least pump the kite, roll out the lines, and flex the board.
Think of it like buying a car, you’d never skip the test drive. Same here, except instead of faulty brakes you risk a self-rescue across the horizon. If the seller won’t let you test or even pump up the kite and roll out the lines, that’s your sign to walk away.
And if you’re not sure what “normal” feels like, bring a more experienced buddy. A second pair of eyes will save you from buying problems disguised as bargains.
One last gust
Second-hand deals can be a smart way to save money and ride more, but only if you check properly. Break it down: canopy, valves, bridles, lines, chicken loop, rails, straps. Ask about the gear’s history, be suspicious of prices that are too good, and always test before you buy.
Buy with your head, not just your wallet, and your second-hand gear will keep you stoked for seasons to come. And if second-hand feels too sketchy, go for new kites from previous years.
Because nothing ruins a session faster than realizing your “new” kite has the stamina of a deflated pool toy.
xox Berito